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PUDDLE HOPPING IN ZAMBIA

BUSH SAFARI DESTINATION EXPERIENCE

WET AND WILD

IN AN

AFRICAN EDEN

For six months commencing each November, it’s a time of plenty in Zambia, when big rains turn the land to an emerald sheen, birds appear in dazzling breeding plumage, animals give birth, and two of earth’s biggest mammal migrations are triggered by the rising waters. All this, and tourists are virtually non-existent.

It’s a time of plenty in Zambia, when big rains turn the land to an emerald sheen,birds appear in dazzling breeding plumage, animals give birth, and two of earth’s biggest mammal migrations are triggered by the rising waters. All this, and tourists are virtually non-existent.

It began with the bats. Each year, as the rains start sometime in October, little Kasanka National Park, north of Lusaka, fills with straw-coloured fruit bats, inbound from the Congo. With its nine lakes and network of streams, rivers and grassy **dombos** interspersed between red mahogany swamp and indigenous forests, Kasanka is a handsome location for what is – in terms of sheer numbers – the world’s largest mammal migration.

It’s estimated that by mid-November, some eight million of these creatures wing their way here, flying in to feed on the fruit of wild loquat (musuku) and waterberry trees. The bats roost in a patch of Mushitu forest along the Musola River. At dusk, we took guided walks to watch as they set out on their nocturnal flights. And at dawn we installed ourselves in a specially built tree hide, 18 metres up in a sprawling Mululu mahogany, from where we kept watch for sitatunga. It’s apparently the best spot in the world from which to observe these shy antelopes. We counted scores of them gathering in the Kapabi swamp below, while up above the sky darkened with the swirling mass of bats returning from the night’s feed.

Where to Stay

Kasanka has two permanent lodges. Of these, Wasa is best suited for visits to the Fibwe hide. For more information and booking details. www.kasanka.com

In South Luangwa, stay at Puku Ridge Camp, run by Sanctuary Retreats. www.sanctuaryretreats.com

In Kafue, Mukambi Plains Camp operates seasonally, and shuts at the end of this month, reopening only in July. Mukambi Lodge, however, is open a the year. www.mukambi.com

Liuwa should have its first luxury lodge by late 2015, along with a direct helicopter service, managed by Norman Carr Safaris. www.normancarrsafaris.com

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