ALCHEMY AT HEMELHUIJS
Entering the restaurant is like being welcomed into a world wholly apart from the city outisde. The walls are painted in tones of warm burnt orange, with a multitude of gold-labelled brown laboratory bottles creating a striking feature that whets both the curiosity and the appetite upon arrival. The unique bottles are filled with flavour compounds that artist and chef Jacques Erasmus has developed in the kitchen. The result of his creative wizardry, they are aptly referred to as Flavour Intense. When Chef Jacques the alchemist discovers the perfect blend for a Kashmiri chai, achieves the perfect balance for his black dukkah, turns sundried tomatoes into dust or a surplus of citrus fruit into a soft powder, the results are bottled to be shared not only in the restaurant but by those wanting to take them home and create a bit of magic themselves.
In the four years since its opening in October 2010, Hemelhuijs has undergone several transformations. The initial black walls gave way to green, then grey was introduced. The art changed, the displays were reinvented, and the floral features styled according to the changing mood. The menu of course also changes according to the season. It is this constantly evolving creativity that has gathered Chef Jacques his loyal following of design- and food-obsessed fans. His is not a static style. Nor is it the result of the whims of a man unable to make up his mind. His creative expression is a fluid fluctuation of mood and time. At Hemelhuijs there is an unspoken, constant invitation to return again and again, and to be inspired anew with each visit.
The menu is sophisticated and authentic. While beautifully presented on an array of handmade and precious crockery, there is no pretention, only elegant simplicity and a sincere regard and respect for food. Chef Jacques’ Gold Collection Tableware is another striking feature of the establishment. Based on the Bone Collection (which was inspired by the matt tones of slaked lime and bleached bone), the Gold Collection uses a pure gold compound and undergoes five firings in a kiln. It is the most opulent of all Chef Jacques’ tableware collections. Inspired by his fascination with the mythical stories of heroes, kings, fairytales, and the godly beliefs of the Egyptians and ancient Sumerians, the vessels embody a lively imagination.
The alchemy of Hemelhuijs takes place when a childhood favourite of soft mieliepap is simply served with orange blossom honey and salted butter – in a gold bowl. When the heat of the porridge melts the butter and honey and the reflection of the bowl causes it to look like tiny rivers of gold flowing around the porridge. It has all the elements of magic you once believed in as a child.
This dish has become a talking point for all the right reasons. Only a chef confident in his craft would present an ingredient of such apparent ordinariness with such simplicity. But Chef Jacques knows when to let ingredients speak for themselves. For him cooking is not about outsmarting his guests. It is about bringing them joy. This is just one of many such examples of magic created through culinary confidence, simplicity, and a touch of creative genius.
The name Hemelhuijs has become synonymous with indulgence. Every visit is a feast of some sort – whether it be the discovery of new flavour combinations, the visual delight of the surroundings, or simply the luxury of drinking something warm from a beautifully handcrafted cup. In a world that is far too rushed and far too drab, a visit to Hemelhuijs will remind you that beauty and magic are in fact all around us.
For more information visit www.hemelhuijs.co.za.
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